Betta Fish Spawning – Guide, Videos and Images

The spawning process is interesting, yet it appears to have no order to the inexperienced eye. Fortunately for everyone, there is a pattern, and while I used to be unable to predict when a pair would spawn, I now know when they will almost surely spawn the day before they do. We’ll get to the behavior in a moment, but first you must understand how to introduce the pair.

Image Credits: Hristo Hristov

Betta Fish Breeding: A Step-by-Step Guide to Spawning

Betta breeding may be time-consuming and costly. Betta may lay over 500 eggs in a single spawn, which means you’ll have over 300 juveniles to care for if the majority of them survive! You must plan ahead of time and be clear about your objectives and aims for this spawning activity. Large-scale breeding for supply necessitates a significant commitment of time, space, and money.

Breeding betta is quite difficult to generate a profit on due to the high starting and supply expenses, therefore this should not be your objective for a long time. Do you want to work in genetics, supply a local pet store, or compete in a breeding show?

Or are you simply a betta fan who wants to take your passion to the next level? When attempting to breed any animal, having as much knowledge about the species as possible is essential. You must educate yourself about betta care and reproduction. If you follow our instructions, you may simply breed betta fish at home. So let’s get started with a step-by-step instruction in 6 phases on how to breed a betta fish! Before that, check out this lovely video of betta fish breeding!

1. Making Your Betta Species Choice

Before you buy a betta, think about how old it is. At least 3.5 months old and an inch in length or longer. Man sexuality is largely focused on females until a male achieves maturity (age 2 to 3 months).
Because females mature sexually sooner than males, females must be at least 3 months old before they can reproduce. When they mate, they wrap their bodies around their female partner.
As a result, the male must be bigger than the female!

2. To Setup of a breeder fish tank is the second phase.

You may require:

  • a 10-gallon tank that is empty (be equipped with a removable divider and a few hiding places) Set the 25-watt heater at 80°F (27°C).
  • A programmable filter (such as a sponge filter with a gang valve). There is a lot of Christmas moss and Indian
  • Almond Leaf (only available online)
  • The tank well is wrapped in plastic wrap (preferably siblings)
  • The presence of substrate in your breeding tank, like as gravel, may result in egg dispersion. Use 5″ – 6″ of water that is free of pollutants, parasites, and potentially harmful microorganisms.
  • You’ll also need to build a building that allows the female to flee or seek refuge from the male.
  • Plants should be placed on one side of the tank to achieve this. The framework is meant to provide a way of escape and safety for the female in the event that she has to distance herself from an unduly aggressive suitor. As a result, the male may murder the female during the mating process.

3. Third Phase: Observing Behavior

You may either put them in different containers or put them next to each other with a divider.
You must also be able to construct a non-transparent barrier that you may employ as needed to do this. This barrier might be something opaque that keeps them from seeing one other.
Remove the non-transparent barrier every three days to see how the pair interacts with each other.
If they’re ready to breed, you’ll see a frenzied reaction from them, as if they’re “clashing” in each other’s presence.

The male will swim about flaring and creating a bubble nest, but the female has black vertical stripes on her body (usually visible only on dark colored betta females).

4. The fourth phase is the preparation.

Preheat the oven to 76-80 degrees Fahrenheit. Allow the couple to be fed on a daily basis for a week or two before introducing them to their mating tank. Increasing feeding is critical since it is required for the mating process. Overfeeding results in a disease known as “dropsy,” in which the fish’s body expands and the scales stand on edge. Curing this disease is difficult. Every week, half of the water is changed. Every time you replace the tank water, add 14 tsp non-iodized salt to each 10 gallons. Tannins can also be added to your water change. There are a plethora of alternatives accessible.
Allow a tea bag to soak in the tank until the water turns light to medium brown. The tea can be brewed ahead of time and allowed to cool to the same temperature as your aquarium.

You may also add tannins to the tank by microwaving a dried brown leaf for 30 seconds to kill any bacteria before adding it. Using a medicine dropper, add the tea to the tank. Placing the escape structure near the filter is a good idea. In this fashion, the filter permits the female to hide and escape, while simultaneously providing a supply of oxygenated water for the female to recover from all of the chases and bites she would typically experience throughout the spawning process. Place the heater and spawning area diagonally across from the filter and escape structure. Where will the eggs hatch and the pair mate? Place the desired spawning location diagonally across from the filter to ensure that there is no water flow in the area.As a platform for his bubble nest, the male utilizes a Styrofoam cup or a piece of waxed paper. My favorites include dried leaf and/or a floating water sprite plant. The dried leaf serves as a bubble nest platform as well as a tannin source for the breeding couple. To help induce spawning, add extra tea bags to the spawning tank. The leaves of the water sprite provide as a natural platform for the male’s bubble nest, while its roots feed both the fry and the infusoria population. Toxins in the water, such as ammonia and nitrites, can be absorbed by the water sprite.

Male bettas will bubble nest under duckweed as well. Reduce the tank’s water level to 4 to 6 inches so that the male does not have to waste as much energy hunting for the eggs that are tumbling in the tank.

Phase 5: Introduce the Mating Pair and Spawning

Mating couples should be introduced one at a time rather than all at once. In most situations, I recommend beginning with the female and positioning her behind a transparent barrier so that the male can see her. A clear soda bottle with the bottom cut off might serve as this transparent barrier. Place the male in a part of the tank where he won’t be able to view the female.
Allow the man to find his partner in his new circumstances.

Preheat the oven to 82-82 degrees Fahrenheit. This increase in temperature will entice them to reproduce. When the male notices his companion, he should indicate his interest by flaring his fins.
A female should respond by exhibiting vertical marks on her body, raising her fins, or expressing her desire to mate. If this does not occur, add additional tannins. There is no need to be concerned about tannins entering the water. Tannins are not toxic. When they exhibit this behavior, wait until the male is out of sight before releasing the female. Discovery increases the odds of a successful spawn.
Spawning will start between 48 and 72 hours. If you follow the procedures outlined above, they will appear 99.9% of the time. If they don’t, try putting an additional female into the tank and mutating one of the partnered individuals. Completely completing this process. An additional female should be added to the tank to stimulate the bettas’ natural aggressive nature. Many fish breeders have noticed that each fish has a favorite companion. There are just a few guys that will interact with one girl, while there are many males who are interested in another. It is reported that changing the female causes the eggs to hatch in two days. Day and night illumination is recommended from the moment the mating pair is introduced until the fry are free swimming. One school of thought argues that continuous light aids in spawning and also cares for the eggs until they hatch.

Post-spawning processes are covered in Phase 6.

Remove the female when the spawning has finished.
When you observe the female depart the bubble nest after she has placed all of the eggs, it means the operation is complete. That tank must be drained on the same day that the spawning is completed. If she is hungry, she will be tempted to eat the eggs to restore her lost energy.
This man will be here for 5 days to take care of the fry. Simply increasing the water level will enough.

Image Sources:,%20Colisa,Gourami/21.%20Bettas%20Spawning.jpg,%20Colisa,Gourami/18.%20Bettas%20Spawning.jpg,%20Colisa,Gourami/16.%20Bettas%20Spawning.jpg,%20Colisa,Gourami/12.%20Bettas%20Spawning.jpg,%20Colisa,Gourami/11.%20Bettas%20Spawning.jpg,%20Colisa,Gourami/10.%20Bettas%20Spawning.jpg,%20Colisa,Gourami/09.%20Bettas%20Spawning.jpg,%20Colisa,Gourami/07.Bettas%20Spawning.jpg

Praecox Rainbow – Basic Info, Care instructions and Tank Setup

Praecox Rainbows, often known as Dwarf Neon Rainbows, are calm schooling fish. Rainbowfish are distinguished by their big eyes, a black or silver band running through the middle scale rows, highly forked jaws, and two dorsal fins.
Melanotaenia praecox will thrive in a planted aquarium with plenty of free swimming areas. The hues of the Praecox Rainbow may be enhanced on a dark colored gravel substrate.

The Praecox Rainbow is an egg layer that lays its eggs on moss. After six or seven days at a temperature of approximately 75°F, the fry will hatch. After hatching, adults should be separated from the fry. Small bits of live meals, such as brine shrimp, should be fed to fry.

Praecox Rainbows have wide mouths, but their necks are small. Keeping this in mind, foods should not be excessively big. An omnivorous diet comprising prepared flakes, frozen meals, and live foods should be provided to the Praecox Rainbow.


What We Enjoy About This Fish:
Community fish that is active and schooling and thrives in planted aquariums
Many invertebrates are compatible with it.
Adults have vivid red and blue coloring.
Active and simple to feed

Temperature: 73° – 82° F (23° – 28° C), however 72° – 82° F is preferred pH: 8.8 – 12 dKH: 6.8 – 7.5 KH
Minimum tank capacity: 20 gallons

Omnivorous diet. High-quality dry meals will be tolerated, but they should be supplemented with tiny, meaty frozen and live foods on a regular basis.
Schooling/shoaling should be done in big groups as often as feasible. In tiny aquariums, dominant males may fight or kill subdominant males. It gets along well with most other fish of a similar size.
Origin: Tank-bred, yet native to New Guinea and Indonesia.
Adult height ranges from 2.5 to 3.2 inches (6.4 – 8 cm)
The average purchasing size is.5 to 1 inch (1.2 – 2.5 cm)

Reedfish – Erpetoichthys Calabaricus

Erpetoichthys calabaricus, often known as the reedfish, ropefish (more commonly used in the United States), or snakefish, is a species of freshwater fish in the bichir family and order. Erpetoichthys is the only species in the genus. It is only found in West and Central Africa.

The reedfish has lungs in addition to gills, allowing it to thrive in extremely oxygen-depleted water. It is threatened by habitat loss caused by palm oil plantations and other agricultural practices, as well as deforestation and urban expansion.

The reedfish may grow to a maximum total length of 37 cm (15 in). It has an eel-like, elongated body with no ventral fin. The long dorsal fin is made up of a succession of well-separated spines, each of which supports one or more articulated rays and a membrane. The reedfish has two lungs that allow it to breathe atmospheric air.

This enables the species to survive in water with low dissolved oxygen concentration as well as to survive for an intermediate period of time outside of water. Larvae have prominent external gills that resemble salamander larvae

Geophagus Proximus – Tankmates, care and proper diet

This species is uncommon in the hobby, despite the fact that its name is frequently added to shipments of other Geophagus species.

Natural habitat

Predominantly found in the lower sections of rivers, although specimens have also been obtained from floodplain lakes in várzea areas, as well as certain permanent black water lakes, such as Lago Aman near Tefé, Brazil.  It is believed to favor clear and black water habitats over turbid ‘white’ seas, and it prefers gently sloping marginal zones surrounding coasts or islands with sand, fine gravel, and mud substrates.  Other habitat characteristics may include scattered boulders, submerged tree roots and branches, and so on, depending on location.

How to keep

The most important piece of décor is a soft, sandy substrate that allows the fish to browse normally (see ‘Diet’). Additional furnishings are as much a matter of personal preference as anything else, although the most popular configurations include rather dim illumination, as well as some driftwood and scattered roots or branches. Leaf litter is a natural component of the environment, but it is not encouraged in aquaria because the feeding behavior of Geophagus spp. causes an excess of partially-decomposed material in suspension, which not only looks unappealing but can also clog filter and pump systems. If desired, one or two flattish, water-worn boulders might be placed to give possible spawning locations. Because these cichlids are very vulnerable to decreasing water quality and fluctuations in chemical parameters, they should never be introduced to a biologically immature aquarium.

Tankmates, Compatibility and behavior

Unless it is mating, this species is very calm and will not prey on fish greater than a few centimetres in length. There are simply too many suitable tankmates to mention, but they include most calm animals that appreciate comparable environmental circumstances. Aggressive or territorial substrate-dwelling species, as well as those needing harsher water, should be avoided. Some aquarists keep Geophagus spp. with freshwater stingrays of the genus Potamotrygon, which has been effective in many cases but has led in some of them disappearing at night (!). G. proximus is sociable and prefers to congregate in loose groups unless spawning, with youngsters in particular exhibiting strong clustering tendencies. The minimum buy should be a group of 5-8 fish who will create a clear dominance structure. When kept in lower numbers, weaker specimens may become the object of excessive hostility by stronger individuals, or the group may struggle to settle and act anxiously.

Proper diet

Be a result, they are frequently referred to as ‘eartheaters,’ and the availability of a suitable substrate is critical to their long-term well-being.
When food is provided, they quickly ascend into the water column, although they continue to browse normally at other times. Small aquatic and terrestrial invertebrates, plant material in the form of seeds, organic waste, and silt make up the majority of the stomach contents of wild individuals. Even as adults, these cichlids are unable to consume bigger food items, indicating that the diet should include a variety of high quality, fine-grade prepared meals as well as small live or frozen bloodworm, Tubifex, Artemia, mosquito larvae, and so on. At least part of the dried goods should have a significant amount of vegetable matter, such as Spirulina or something similar. Homemade, gelatine-bound meals, for example, comprising a mixture of dried fish food, puréed shellfish, fresh fruit and vegetables, have been shown to work effectively and may be cut into bite-sized discs with the tip of a pointed pipette or tiny knife. Rather of a single large meal each day, feed 3-4 smaller meals throughout the day to encourage natural browsing behavior, which appears to result in the optimum development rate and condition. To find high-quality live, frozen, and dry food, use the websites below: Bloodworm, Tubifex, Artemia.



Aquaria-bred substrate-spawning, ovophilous, biparental mouthbrooder. There does not appear to be a specific trigger for the spawning process, with the primary needs being a healthy diet and a strict maintenance regimen that includes rather significant weekly water changes. Courtship is inconspicuous, consisting of fin flaring, circling, gaping, and head jerking displays, and when a pair is ready to spawn, they will choose an appropriate spot.

Spawning takes place in the normal substrate–spawning manner, with the female depositing one or more rows of eggs before the male moves in to fertilize them, a procedure that is repeated multiple times over the course of several hours. At 8-11 days of age, the fry reach 77 – 82.4°F/25 – 28°C and the parents begin to allow them to feed, initially cautiously then gradually for extended periods of time.

halfmoon betta fish

Halfmoon Betta Fish – Characteristics, Care guide & Behavior

Halfmoon Betta is a name that is self-explanatory. The tail is large, forming a half-circle that resembles the shape of a half-moon. This species is only found in captivity and is not found in the wild. Halfmoon Bettas are frequently produced by professionals for use in Betta exhibits. The Halfmoon Betta was first produced in the 1980s, and it didn’t take long for it to make its way to Europe, where it quickly became popular. These fish are more difficult to reproduce and have more aggressive behavior.


Betta fish come in a variety of shapes and sizes, including Plakats, Samurai, Metallic, Mustard Gas, Half Moon, and many others. But what exactly do all of these terms imply? Are there some that are more precious than the rest? Do they all have different needs in terms of care? A betta with a halfmoon tail is known as a Halfmoon betta. They are available in a variety of colors and patterns, including Samurai and Mustard Gas. Regardless of colour, the Halfmoon is one of the most popular betta species. Halfmoon bettas have two different tail kinds, and despite the fact that their tail is their only distinguishing feature from other bettas, they do require specific attention. The tail type definition, Plakats vs long-tailed halfmoons, deltas, species, care, size, and availability will all be covered in this article.

How big do Halfmoon Betta get?

What is the size of the half moon betta? Adult Half Moon Bettas tend a body length of over 2 inches and a tail length of somewhat more than 3 inches. Plakats are often slightly smaller due to their tails, however their bodies might be shorter as well. Plakats are often slightly smaller due to their tails, however their bodies might be shorter as well.  This is the normal size for splendens, however if you obtain a Half Moon King Betta, they may grow to be somewhat larger, since they are a more recent hybrid of splendens and raja, with raja being a larger species. Despite their greater size, the long-finned bettas may still fit into a smaller area than the plakats. This is analogous to the demand for at least 150 gallons of water for normal goldfish, but just 30 gallons for fancy goldfish, which are malformed and slower.

How old will a Half moon betta become?

With appropriate care, half moon Betta fish may live for two to four years.

Are Halfmoon betta agressive?

There are two betta splendens in the tank. Domesticated and wild. We’re talking about tamed animals here. Halfmoon bettas can be more aggressive than veil tails, although this varies from fish to fish.  Agression is entirely dependent on the individual, however purchasing a plakat that has been specifically bred for fighting by the breeder (select your breeders wisely) will result in greater aggression. Any betta from a shop or a regular betta farm might have more aggression than another; simply put, all bettas have aggression. Some people simply have a shorter fuse.  Any single betta has the ability to be fantastic with a group of fish, or to butcher them.
There are a few more things to consider now.With the exception of a plakat, a female betta will be more hazardous than a similarly aggressive male. Females are larger, have shorter fins, and are quicker and more agile.  Of fact, PK and HMPK have shortfinned for the goal of fighting quickly and dangerously, thus an aggressive Pk vs an equally aggressive VT will usually result in a dead VT, simply because the plakat can move quicker and has a stronger body structure.

Type of Tail

A Half Moon betta’s characteristic tail type is a long, rounded tail that extends to a perfect 180 degrees when the fish is angry or showing off. Flare is the most effective technique to check betta’s tail rotation. The betta’s tail will fully stretch after it has flared, and you may photograph it to see how much it extends. An over half moon, abbreviated OHM, occurs when the tail extends beyond 180 degrees. The betta will typically be a delta if the tail is shorter than 180 degrees, however depending on the length and expansion, you may also have a veil tail. Other tail varieties, including as crown tails, comb tails, rose tails, and feather tails, can have 180-degree tails, but this is uncommon, and they are not known as half-moon bettas. They’re just known as the other identifying tail kind. Feather tail bettas, for example, have “fluffy”-looking tails that, despite their ability to stretch to 180 degrees, are distinguished by their distinctive tail characteristics.

Long Tailed Half Moons vs. Plakat

Plakats and long-tailed bettas can also have the halfmoon appearance. A plakat is a betta with an extremely small tail fin, which only pertains to male bettas because female bettas always have short fins. Male and female plakat bettas are frequently mistaken because to their identical fins. Most pet store staff designate a fish male or female based on the length of the tail fins, ignoring the ventral fins, which leads to errors. A half moon plakat is the finest plakat. A plakat that does not attain a complete 180 degrees does not have a well-known particular name, but these are significantly less valuable. Long finned bettas with fins that are above 180 degrees are known as over half moons, whereas those with fins that are under 180 degrees are known as deltas. Long-finned bettas rarely show their entire fins unless they are flaring, and they frequently appear weighed down and uncomfortable, whereas plakat fins are more even and do not obstruct their movements. The Half Moon betta is not intrinsically less valuable than the deltas and super deltas. The quality of their coloring and general health are the most important factors in determining the price of a Half Moon or a Delta.

Half Moon Deltas

A delta is a betta fish that does not have a veil tail, rose tail, comb tail, crown tail, or feather tail and has a tail spread of less than 180 degrees. Any betta that fulfills all of the above criteria is known to as a delta tail, but if it is extremely near to a 180 degree tail spread, it is referred to as a super delta. This betta is more frequently mistaken for a Half Moon than any other betta.

Species of Half Moon,%20Colisa,Gourami/Halfmoon%20Betta%204.jpg

Despite their many names and kinds, all of these bettas belong to the same species: Splendens. Betta is a genus that has seventy-three distinct species. Only a few other animals have been tamed sufficiently to develop a variety of tail forms, and they are few and far between. Betta imbellis, for example, has been domesticated for several decades, but there are only two tail options: regular tail or spade tail. The regular tail resembles that of a low-quality plakat, while the spade tail is almost same, except that it terminates in a point. All of these fish have the same coloring, with very little variation.


There is a grading scheme based on color vibrancy, however there aren’t hundreds of distinct color kinds to choose from, and a Mustard Gas imbellis is unlikely. The domesticated betta, on the other hand, is not pure splendens, but rather a hybrid of splendens, imbellis, and smaragdina. All of the varied colorations and tail forms are the result of cross-breeding between these species. As a result, the pure splendens species, like imbellis, has a relatively limited selection. Domesticated hybrids are the only ones capable of offering such a diverse range of choices, which is why they are so popular.,%20Colisa,Gourami/Halfmoon%20Betta%203.jpg

Basic of Half Moon Betta Care

The plakat halfmoon betta and the long fin Half Moon betta have relatively similar care requirements as other betta fish, however there is a difference between the two. Half Moon betta fish, like any other betta, require water that is heated to between 78 and 82 degrees Fahrenheit. They require a filter and a completely cycled tank, which means you have enough established bacteria to convert ammonia to nitrates in less than 24 hours, which takes approximately a month. They also require a range of meals, including frozen brine shrimp, daphnia, blood worms, ants, soldier fly larvae, black worms, white worms, grindal worms, and others, as well as two basic foods and numerous treat foods.

Half moon Diet: Betta fish eat a variety of foods.

Betta fish are carnivorous fish that eat other fish. They seek insects, larvae, and insect eggs from the water’s surface in the wild. As a result, your betta should be fed a fish meal that is high in meat and protein.  Be aware that several common tropical fish flakes are incompatible with the diet of betta fish.  If your betta lives in a tank with other fish, you’ll need to consider their diets as well.

What Should You Feed Your Betta?

It may seem self-evident, but a betta fish-specific pellet is typically the best option.  Check the components to make sure the fish food you have matches the demands of your carnivorous betta fish.  The initial few components should be meat-based, with a protein content of 40% or more overall.

Betta fish are carnivorous fish. They thrive also on meat, which includes:

  • bloodworms
  • mosquito larvae
  • shrimp that has been dried
  • live brine shrimp

How often should a betta fish be fed?

A betta fish should be fed two modest meals each day.  It’s ideal to feed them twice a day, once in the morning and once at night. Making these feeds around 12 hours apart and at the same time each day will help you and your betta establish a pattern.  Every 10-14 days, some owners choose to fast their betta fish for 24 hours.  This fasting day aids in the prevention of constipation.

How much should your betta fish be fed?

It should be enough to eat 2-3 medium-sized pellets in the morning and 2-3 pellets at night.  Take cautious not to overfeed! This is a typical error that can cause bloating in your betta fish, which can lead to significant health issues.  Keep in mind that a betta fish’s stomach is about the same size as its eye, making it very simple to overfeed them.  Don’t be fooled by your betta’s voracious hunger; they can devour the entire pack if you tip it in.  They may appear to be hungry for more, but be careful not to overfeed them.  Putting too much food in your tank might have additional negative consequences, like as polluting the water and making your tank unclean.

Can you train your betta fish?

Betta fish have a high level of intelligence for a fish, which contributes to its appeal. In terms of fish that can be trained, they are also one of the best options. While most trainable fish can only be taught via repetition, betta fish may also be taught using voice instructions. Your betta fish will learn to link an action with a word or a short series of words if you repeat a word or a short series of words with an accompanying action. While kids will just hear random noises instead of words at first, they will quickly realize that those noises have significance. Bettas, for example, cannot learn that their names are intended for them, as previously stated. This isn’t to say that training a betta to come when called is impossible.
Simply calling your betta’s name a few times while feeding them will cause them to link the sounds that make up their name with food. You may fool your betta into believing it’s chow time everytime their name is spoken in this way, causing them to hurry over when you call. Bettas have long memories, lasting many months, so you won’t have to retrain them after they’ve learned to link their name with food.

Betta Fish Tank Setup & Maintenance

Bettas are extremely sensitive to changes in their environment. It’s possible that your betta will thrive in a little fishbowl. This isn’t correct. Betta fish that have enough of space enjoy longer and happier lives. Bettas may cohabit with other fish, but a male should never reside with another male because they will fight.

Aquarium conditions that are ideal

Tank Size & and setup

  • A minimum of five gallons (19 liters).
  • Temperatures should range from 73 to 81 degrees Fahrenheit (23 to 27 degrees Celsius).
  • Filter is to be of the under-gravel kind and has a control that may be adjusted.
  • Use Heater to maintain the water at 76 degrees Fahrenheit.
  • To prevent cutting the betta’s fins, real or silk plants are ideal.
  • Rocks: As long as the lava rocks are not sharp, they function nicely. The porous surfaces of the granite will support the growth of beneficial microorganisms.
  • Decor: Make sure there’s some place large enough for your betta to hide in when they need to.

The tank size needed for the Long Tailed Half Moons and the Plakat are different. Long Tailed Half Moons probably have a lot of trouble getting about and aren’t as active as their plakat counterparts. Half Moon bettas with long fins can survive in a 3 gallon tank, but plakats are much more active and are not pulled down by long fins, thus they require at least 5 gallons, with 10 being preferable.

Getting Your Halfmoon Betta Used to a New Tank

Prepare their tank when you bring your betta home from the store (or when you receive it in the mail).

  • Allow at least 24 hours before adding your new fish to the aquarium. Add a simple water conditioner to the mix (follow the directions on the bottle). By the time you introduce your fish, the water should be de-chlorinated and at the proper temperature.
  • Keep your betta in its original container or put it in a container. Pour roughly 1/4 of the water in the container out slowly and replace it with tank water.
  •  Repeat steps 3–5–10 minutes later, but this time remove a little more water.
  • Do this three times in a 5–10 minute period.
  • Finally, release your betta into its new tank using a net.

Fish meal that is composed of flesh should be sought for.

Cleanliness in the Tank

  • Get yourself a test kit. If the test results reveal excessive levels of ammonia, nitrite, or nitrate, increase the water change to get the levels back to zero.
  • Vacuum the gravel at least once a week (with a special aquarium vacuum).
  • If you don’t already have a filter, you should acquire one. In the meanwhile, every other day, change 25% of the water.
  • A lot of the “dirt” that forms in a fish tank is invisible. This includes compounds like ammonia, which may quickly accumulate. A good water conditioner that eliminates heavy metals, chorine, and chloramines is essential.
  • Keeping this in mind, if you have a filter, cleaning the tank once a week should enough. This does not imply that you must replace all of the water in your tank. To decrease the risk of your fish being shocked, only do a 50% water change.
  • Some bettas like jumping and can leap from their aquariums with ease. Keep a lid on their aquarium if this is your fish!

Sign that tell you hat your Half moon fish is healthy

  • Color that is bright and brilliant.
  • Gliding, smooth motions
  • There are no drooping tails or fins.
  • Appetite that is healthy.
  • The surface is smooth, clean, and blemish-free.

How do I get myself a halfmoon betta?

Fortunately, because of its popularity, this lovely fish is readily accessible and frequently inexpensive, depending on the colour. The Half Moon market, unlike the veil tail, isn’t completely saturated yet, so there’s still plenty of variation and turnover.
Half Moon plakats are slightly less frequent than Half Moon long finned bettas, but they are still very common. However, you should be aware that the majority of bettas called Half Moons in pet stores are actually Deltas, so double-check before purchasing your fish.  To summarize, Half Moon betta fish are betta fish with a tail that can stretch exactly 180 degrees, hence the name. They come in a variety of colors and sizes, as well as short and long tails.  Their care is identical to that of other bettas, with the exception that the shorter-tailed variety requires a bigger dwelling space.  

Why Do Half Moon Betta Fish  Fight?

Whether you’ve had betta fish all your life or are just getting started, you’ll wonder or be asked why they fight at some time.
There are a variety of reasons why these ferocious fish attack one another, but the history of betta fish aggression stretches back millennia. In the 1800s, Southeast Asia was the first place where Bettas were found. Those laboring in the fields transported them from their native home in rice paddies and puddles to nearby cities.
Because of the betta fish’s ferocity, keepers began battling them, wagering on matches, and breeding them for enhanced violence. Because matches had become so popular, the King of Siam decided to control them by levying a charge on them. This hereditary aggressiveness is still present in today’s world.

What Causes Male Bettas to Fight?

Male betta fish battle each other because of their fierce territoriality. When it’s not dry season, bettas have kilometers of rivers and paddies to swim across in the wild. When one male approaches the territory of another, the two may display aggressiveness, but a battle is unlikely because there is plenty of opportunity to flee. The two male bettas would fan out their fins and blow up their gills (flaring) during a battle to make themselves appear twice as big. This act is performed in order to intimidate and frighten the opponent. If that fails, they’ll nip at each other until one of them gives up. It’s cruel to keep them together in a tank with no vegetation or other places to hide. NEVER place two guys in the same room without a wall between them and obscuring their view. Male bettas will battle over food as well. In captivity, betta fish will consume as much as you can feed them. However, in the wild, they must either discover or hunt for food to survive. When two males join together in certain situations, there is no pack mentality, only a drive to survive. To safeguard their nests and eggs, males would battle with other. When a male betta is ready to mate, he will create a bubble nest by blowing a cluster of bubbles on the water’s surface. He’ll wait for a girl to come by and recognize his masterpiece once it’s finished. Any harm to his prospects of conceiving a child will arouse his protective instincts.

When Betta Fish Fight, How Long Do They Fight?

If two male bettas meet in the wild, they will both fan out their fins and blow up their gills to make themselves appear as huge as possible. If that doesn’t deter one of them, they’ll nip at each other until one of them decides to flee. A betta fish battle might continue a few minutes or terminate abruptly in most situations.
Fights between bettas that have been carefully bred for aggression can last much longer and generally end with one betta being severely wounded or killed. This is animal cruelty, and it should never be performed in captivity.

Debunking the Myth Of Half Moon Fighting

Betta fish aren’t always willing to battle to the death. Unless they’ve been carefully bred for aggression or are stuck in a small tank with nowhere for the less dominant betta to hide, they won’t even get near to that point. This is especially true with betta splendens, the most often marketed betta as a pet.
Bettas nibble and thrash around, causing damage to their opponents’ scales, gills, and tails. However, such injuries, along with illnesses brought on by stress, might kill a betta following a battle. Making betta fish fight on purpose is cruel.

Do Female Bettas Get Into Fights?

Females are less aggressive than males, although they can still be territorial and fight each other. They may live happily in sororities, or groups of female betta fish. In a sorority, females will typically be hostile against other females for a short time until a natural pecking order is established.
In a 20-gallon tank with nine female betta fish, for example, one will establish herself as the alpha, and the others will bow to her and create their own smaller packs. They will most likely coexist happily if no additional betta fish are introduced, upsetting the ecology.
It’s best to have numerous ladies in a sorority and enough of room for them when starting one. A sorority must have a minimum of 4-5 female members. Some women may still be too violent to be in a sorority. Larger habitats are preferable since they provide each betta adequate area to establish her own territory. Betta fish have a secure place to hide from bullies and release tension thanks to dense vegetation and hideouts. A guy should never be added to a sorority tank.

What Causes Males and Females to Fight?

Male and female betta fish will also engage in combat. They should only be kept together during mating and then separated as soon as possible. Because it’s usual for females to consume the eggs during spawning, a male will chase them away and protect himself. Males are responsible for laying the eggs in the nest and caring for them until they hatch. They will go to any length to safeguard their children. Males and females fight for the same reasons, with males fighting other males and females fighting other females. They are territorial fighting fish that do not get along with one another.

Do Bettas Get Into Fights With Other Fish?

Because of their territorial aggressiveness, male and female betta fish are generally housed in tiny containers at pet stores. These makeshift enclosures are designed to keep them separate from one another and other fish. Every betta fish has a unique personality and aggressiveness level. With the proper care, they are also quite willing to live on their own.

Bettas may fight other fish under these conditions

  • the tank is too small for a community ecosystem
  • The other fish is also abrasive.
  • For a communal tank with other fish species, tanks less than 10 gallons should be avoided. You must offer adequate room for everyone to live comfortably without causing annoyance or congestion.
  • there aren’t enough hiding places
  • the other fish looks like a betta fish
  • the other fish is brilliantly colored
  • the other fish has long fins
  • the tank is too tiny for a community environment

Do Half Moon Betta Fish Listen To Music ?

“Does my little friend like my music?” a pet owner will ask themselves at some time in their lives.  While Betta fish have superb hearing and have ears, the water reduces the efficiency of their sense of hearing, they can listen to sounds outside of their tank, such as music or voices. However, if they are too close to loud noises with high vibrations, you may inadvertently harm your fish. We’ll talk about ears, music, excessive vibrations, teaching your fish, and recognizing their owner in this post. Similarly, despite having a good sense of hearing, betta fish find it difficult to hear everything that happens outside of their aquarium. Despite this, your betta may be able to identify some of the words and phrases you say, though they are unlikely to remember their names.

Some people say their betta fish reacts to music

On the other hand, anecdotal data suggests that bettas prefer one style of music over another. While we can’t say whether they like or dislike music, betta fish definitely have reactions to it. Some people will react negatively to particular genres of music, while others will swim more frequently, become more aggressive, and remain more motionless and quiet than usual. As one might anticipate from such an educated and likable animal, genre tastes appear to vary from fish to fish. However, certain genres of music will irritate all bettas, particularly ones with a lot of bass or very loud portions. Anyone, even your fish, can be startled by sudden loud noises. Betta will be stressed by every loud beat since they don’t comprehend rhythm and can’t anticipate a beat drop. They can detect noises outside of aquariums, whether it’s music or their owners’ voices, but it doesn’t imply they can listen to anything passively. As previously stated, some sounds, particularly loud ones or ones that create excessive vibrations, can be quite hazardous to your fish.

Do Half Moon Betta Fish Recognize and Interact With Their Owners?

Surprisingly, research has shown that fish can recognize their owner’s face even when the person is standing near the tank with other people.
Fish may form an attachment to something they enjoy, being fed, and the person who feeds them. The more you engage with your betta fish, the more probable it is that they will know you. When an owner approaches a betta fish, it is usual for it to swim to the front of the tank. This can be in anticipation of getting fed, but they may also seek out their owner because they are curious about what will happen next. They do react more strongly to their owner’s voice than to other sounds, which might be due to their just knowing their owner’s better. Because they react to sounds rather than whole words, they may not identify the same word when it is said by numerous persons.

Given their great intellect, excellent memory, and capacity to identify their owners’ faces, they are likely to recall their owners’ voices as well. Their sense of hearing has not received as much attention as their sense of sight, but we may soon have clear answers.
To summarize, betta fish can hear through their ears, despite the fact that their ears are not visible to the outside world.
It is currently impossible to determine if bettas enjoy or detest music, or, if they do, which genres they like.

Betta Fish Forming Bonds With Their Owner

Betta fish may not “love” its owners in the same way that a dog or cat would, but they will clearly demonstrate an interest in and association with them.
Bettas are also known to have excellent memory and may recall individuals even after being separated from them for several weeks or longer.

emperor tetra

Emperor Tetra (Nematobrycon Palmeri) – Care Guide, Behavior and Breeding

The Emperor Tetra is an underappreciated freshwater fish that we have long admired. While they aren’t as well-known as some of the other tetras, we believe they deserve greater attention. These fish have a subtle elegance that shows through when you see them in person.

Not only that, but they are also incredibly simple to maintain! This tutorial will teach you the fundamentals of Emperor Tetra care as well as a wealth of other information that you should be aware of if you are considering becoming an owner. You’ll be eager to purchase some by the time you finish reading it!


The emperor tetra is a simple to care for, resilient, and generally long-lived species for its size. It also has a beautifully calm demeanor, making it perfect for pairing with others. The emperor tetra is an excellent addition to any tank, whether it is a single species or a community tank. This species, which is beautiful, hardy, and affordable, can be found in most dealers’ tanks and is one of the finest choices for the novice to fishkeeping. Because almost all of the fish sold in the trade have been captivity bred, they are often unconcerned with water chemistry and nutrition.

It is occasionally mistaken with N. lacortei, the only other species in the genus. They are easily distinguished by glancing at the eye of the fish in question, since male N. lacortei has a brilliant red iris as opposed to male N. palmeri’s blue iris. Inpaichthys kerri, often known as the ‘blue’ or ‘purple emperor tetra,’ is sometimes mistaken as N. palmeri. This species not only belongs to a distinct (monotypic) genus, but it also grows to a much smaller size and lacks fin extensions. Inpaichthys also has an adipose fin, which Nematobrycon lacks.
In recent years, there has been speculation about the possibility of a third Nematobrycon species, N. “amphiloxus,” which has a much higher proportion of dark patterning on the body and is sometimes sold as a “black emperor tetra.” Most scientists now believe it is a color morph of N. palmeri.

The fundamentals

  • Tank Size: Minimum tank capacity is 10 gallons.
  • Group Size: Bonded couples or a small school of 5 or 6 with one male
  • Water Temperature: Water temperature ranges from 73 to 81 degrees Fahrenheit (23 to 27 degrees Celsius).
  • Life Expectancy: 6 years
  • Breeding: laying eggs
  • Adult Size: 2 in (5 cm)
  • Typical location in the tank: middle to upper levels
  • pH range: 5.0 to 7.8
  • Water Hardness: 3–8 dKH

Emperor Tetra (Nematobrycon palmeri) image



The emperor tetra, Nematobrycon palmeri, is a species of characid fish found in the Atrato and San Juan river basins in western Colombia. It was initially introduced to the United States in the aquarium trade in 1960 and has since become well established. Mervyn George Palmer (1882-1954), an English adventurer who collected throughout Central and South America for the British Museum and collected the type specimen, was honored.


The emperor tetra is distinguished by a broad, black longitudinal stripe that runs from the front border of the gill cover to the caudal fin. Males are distinguished by an enlarged dorsal fin and a longer central ray of the anal fin. The male iris is brilliant blue, but the female iris is more greenish. Males who are ready to mate have a vibrant purple belly.
The Emperor tetra’s most notable traits are:

  • The emperor tetra’s (Nematobrycon palmeri) body flanks are a dazzling blue hue. This blue tint might deepen depending on the emperor tetra’s health
  • Below its lateral line is a black longitudinal ligament that extends from the back edge of the gill cover to the base of the tail
  • The male’s Iris glows blue, the female’s green
  • The male’s colors intensify extremely strongly during the mating season: his belly glows purple and his fins are patterned with rich contrasts
  • The male is somewhat bigger than the female and has a larger dorsal and anal fin
  • The emperor tetra’s dorsal and anal fins are well developed, but it lacks an adipose fin
  • The color of its fins is yellowish to brownish.

The purple coloration of these tetras will be more visible in an aquarium with floating plants on the surface and low lighting. If the aquarium is very bright, the yellow hue will take over. At maturity, the body is long, slender, and flattened to around 3 inches. Looking from the eye to the tail, you’ll notice a black line within a blue stripe. The sickled-shaped dorsal fin, as well as the pectoral and anal fins, are all yellow. The male is bigger than the female and has longer anal fins. The male caudal is sharper than the female.
Because Emperor tetras are very sexually dimorphic, men and females may be easily identified. There are numerous methods to tell a male and female different, but the most accurate approach is to look at the color of their eyes. Males have metallic blue eyes, whilst females have metallic green eyes. In addition, the male has a three-pronged tail, with the medial black stripe usually reaching beyond the remainder of the tail, whereas the female’s median black stripe normally only reaches as far as the transparent portion of the tail. However, this is not necessarily the greatest predictor because the third prong in males can be nipped off in contests with tank mates, and more powerful females may also grow this extension of the tail.

Temperament and behavior

Emperor Tetras are naturally peaceful and get along with most non-aggressive fish.
They prefer to dwell around the middle and top of the water column. They may, however, go to the bottom from time to time.
Aggression is uncommon in this species, but when it does occur, it is generally in males. In smaller tanks, males prefer to battle for supremacy.
Typically, this fighting does not result in serious physical injury, but it is still critical to keep a watch on the fish and separate any aggressors.


With appropriate care, an Emperor Tetra may live for around six years.
The lifetime of an Emperor Tetra, like that of any other fish species, is directly impacted by the quality of care they get. Fish housed in poor water conditions are more vulnerable to stress and disease, so it’s critical to pay attention to their requirements and give the finest care possible.
It’s also a good idea to get your fish from a trustworthy seller. This reduces the likelihood of you purchasing a fish with underlying health concerns or genetic abnormalities.

How to take care of for Emperor Tetras

One of the primary reasons Emperor Tetras are so popular among aquarists is their ease of care.
This means they’re not only lovely, but also low-maintenance. These fish are tough and typically undemanding in terms of diet.
Emperor Tetras are tropical species that thrive in freshwater environments. But it doesn’t imply you should take their care carelessly! Here are some well-established care tips to keep your fish healthy.


In nature, it is most likely a micropredator that feeds on tiny insects, worms, crustaceans, and other zooplankton. It will eat dry meals of appropriate size in the aquarium but should not be fed primarily. Daily feedings of tiny live and frozen fish such as Daphnia, Artemia, and the like will result in the best coloration and encourage the fish to reproduce.
The emperor tetra is an omnivore, meaning it eats both animal and plant food. Any decent flake or pelleted fish food can be used as a foundation for its diet. It will benefit from both live food, such as daphnia and mosquito larvae, and frozen fish food, such as frozen bloodworms.

emperor tetra fish


What Should You Put in Their Tank?

If you were to travel to South America and look at the Emperor Tetra’s native environment, you would observe that the waters are dark and densely forested.
Because of these environmental factors, these fish require dim illumination with plenty of hiding spots.
Begin with a dark-colored substrate on the tank’s bottom. You may make use of gravel. Dark-colored sand, on the other hand, is more similar to what is seen in natural riverbeds.
Incorporate live plants into the tank’s design. These plants will serve as hiding places, places to explore, and places to seek refuge from the sun. Floating plants with a lot of leaves can be added. Java fern and water sprite are both wonderful choices.
Plants should be placed all around the tank. However, make sure there is still enough area for the fish to swim around without being entangled in the leaves.
Decorations can be applied on top of the substrate. Driftwood, rocks, and even plastic tank decorations can be used.
A low-powered light and an appropriate filter are required for tank equipment. A dependable hang-on-back filtering system should suffice.

However, you must ensure that the filter’s water output does not create an excessive amount of flow. If required, position plants or decorations to reduce water disruption.
Emperor Tetras thrive in groups of five or six fish. Because of the aforementioned male aggressiveness, it is best to retain only one male in the group. This prevents any conflict and maintains peace in the neighborhood.

Some tankmates to consider

If you don’t want to keep a huge group, these fish may also be kept as a single bonded couple.
There are several more fish species to consider as tank mates. Any comparable sized calm fish will suffice for the most part.
Ideally, you’ll want to keep tankmates from South America who have comparable habitat requirements. It is also critical to avoid bigger fish that may confuse the Emperor Tetra for food. Here are some tank mates to think about:

  • Pencil fish
  • Honey Gourami
  • Celestial Pearl Danio
  • Pearl Gourami
  • Cory Catfish
  • Ember Tetra
  • Sparkling Gourami
  • Apistogramma
  • Guppies
  • Dwarf Gourami
  • Serpae Tetra


If the fish are kept in an ideal habitat, they will typically breed without any assistance. However, you can also initiate the procedure.
You’ll need to set up a separate breeding tank for this. Temperatures in the tank should be approximately 80 to 82 degrees Fahrenheit. The water should be gentle and have a pH balance of about 7.0. To protect the young fish, use a sponge-equipped filter. Fill the breeding tank with a variety of plants. They will play an essential function in protecting the eggs. Because Emperor Tetras are known to devour eggs, the plants will conceal them. You can use a breeding mop instead of plants if you don’t want to use plants.
Separate your bonded couple about a week before you want to start reproducing. Feed the fish live food while keeping an eye on the female. She should start to fill up with eggs soon. When this occurs, place the couple in the breeding tank. Breeding should take place within a day. Over the course of many hours, the female will lay between 50 and 100 eggs. Remove the couple from the breeding tank once she is finished.

The eggs will hatch in two or three days. The newborn fish will live on the egg sack for the first week or so. You may feed them infusoria once they are free swimming. They’ll be ready for powered fish fry meal or baby brine shrimp in about a week. The emperor tetra generally only lays one egg between plants and consumes it right away. As a result, breeding this fish is not especially fruitful. Emperor tetra are free spawners that spawn just below the water’s surface following a period of rapid drifting. Depending on the temperature of the water, the fish larvae hatch in 24 to 36 hours. Emperor tetras, like other free spawners, leave their eggs to chance. After 36 hours, the fish larvae hatch. For the first few days, they can be fed powdered food, followed by newly hatched artemia. A single pair of emperor tetras will frequently reproduce in a large, well-planted aquarium without any further stimulus. If no other fish are around, some of the young may survive, especially if the parents are properly nourished. Protozoa, algae, and other natural foods will be available to the infants in a big, well-planted aquarium. As they develop, screened daphnia will give additional nutrition, and dry fry food can be utilized.
Within the aquarium The emperor tetra is a peaceful aquarium fish that will be bothered by more noisy species. It may reach a height of 4.2 cm. [2] It prefers a pH of 6.5, a hardness of 3-6 dKH, and temperatures ranging from 23–27 °C. It does not school as well as most tetras, and a pair looks to be happier than most tetras. A big number of emperors may school throughout an aquarium, sometimes for many minutes, if fresh chilly water is added.

Diseases common in tetras

Tuberculosis in fish
The Fish Tuberculosis is a bacterial illness that mostly affects tank fish. It is prevalent and causes significant losses.

Foot or fin rot (Columnaris disease)
Milky white patches (mold-like) appear on the fins, the margins of the scales, and the region around the fish’s mouth.

Neon disease (actual) infestations mostly affect neon fish such as the blue neon, neon tetra, and other tetra species such as the redhead tetra, as well as danios such as the zebrafish or ruby barb.

Neon disease (false)
Neon tetra (Paracheirodon innesi, Paracheirodon simulans) and red neon (which is not affected by the “genuine” neon sickness) are potential victims of the fake neon disease (mycosis)

A fungal illness (mycosis)
or infection is always the result of a secondary infection. Fungal infections are sometimes known as “fish mold” or “water mold.”

The velvet disease
When there is a heavy infestation, the skin appears “velvety,” hence the term “Velvet sickness.” This velvety coating is typically golden-yellowish in hue.

planaria flatworms

Planaria Flatworms – How to Get Rid of Them From You Aquarium

Today I’m going to tell you everything I know about aquarium planarian flatworms. You will understand what it is, its life cycle, different varieties, what causes the infestation, preventative methods, and how to get rid of it. Let’s get started.

Planaria (or Planarian as a single form) are common aquarium visitors. They generally occur when you overfeed your residents and leave an excessive amount of unfinished food in your tank. When this occurs, the flatworms begin to multiply rapidly.

Body structure of Planaria

To combat these worms, you must first recognize your adversary.
Planaria may be differentiated from other unwanted parasites in your aquarium, such as detritus worms and hydra. It looks like a flatworm with a triangular head and two light-sensitive eyespots. Extremely sensitive cells can be found in lobes (auricles) that extend from every side of the skull. Which it use to locate food. When it finds food, it begins to consume it using its protruding muscular pharynx. Planaria use a siphon-like motion to push food into its stomach by cyclic contraction of the muscular pharynx. The flatworm has an acoelomate body, which means it lacks lungs and a circulatory system. It contains flame cells instead of anus, which act to eliminate waste.
Even if you stretch out the planarian flatworm, it will only reach a length of one inch.


Planaria Reproduction

Planaria are hermaphrodites (reproduce asexually), but they may also reproduce sexually. Two flatworms will mate and inseminate the eggs of the other. Then they place them in a cocoon and release them. There are two kinds of eggs based on their temperature:
Summer” eggs (thin-shelled and transparent) Winter” eggs (black)
Summer eggs have a shorter incubation time (a few weeks) than winter eggs. Winter eggs can survive the winter in the wild.
After hatching, the embryo resembles the adult form exactly.
Planaria are well-known for their immortality. When you split it in half, the two halves develop into two new ones. Furthermore, according to scientific study, planaria require just 1/279 of their body to regain its entire body! They will then rebuild everything in two weeks.

Aquarium Planaria Species

Planaria flatworms may be found in aquariums in two varieties:
– Procotyla (white planaria) – Procotyla (black and brown planaria) (Dugesia)
They are both carnivorous. They may consume both living and dead animal materials. As a result, there isn’t much of a distinction between these two forms of planaria for aquarists.

What is the source of the planaria in the aquarium?

These are the primary reasons why you could encounter these tiny worms in your aquarium one day.

  • Overeating
  • Delivered with plants, driftwood, substrate, and so on.
  • There is no systematic upkeep.

Shrimp and Planaria

Planaria may be a nightmare for shrimp breeders. The thing is that they unquestionably kill shrimp and snails. So, how do they get the shrimp to die?
Only weak/small or dying specimens are frequently killed by planaria. Keep in mind that if the shrimp has recently molted, the planaria will have an easy go of it. Shrimp is extremely susceptible without its shell. Planaria will try to connect or crawl onto the shrimp as soon as they have the chance. Most shrimp have the capacity to leap and knock the planaria off balance. Planaria’s slime has the ability to paralyze shrimp, causing them to do little to protect themselves. The Planaria then begin their quest for a soft place to penetrate the shrimp’s body. They will devour the shrimp alive if they find their way into it. This is a heartbreaking story for all shrimp growers.

How to Get Rid of Planaria

They are two popular methods for getting rid of planaria.

  • Treatment of chemicals and natural goods.
  • Planaria traps

You may count yourself fortunate if you have some fish in your aquarium (such as Bettas, Neon Dwarf Rainbowfish, and Pleco types). Because they will consume them and take care of the situation for you. The only drawback is that these fish can devour shrimp with equal gusto.

The blue ram - Mikrogeophagus ramirezi

The Blue Ram, Mikrogeophagus Ramirezi Male – Facts and How to Keep

The blue ram is a stunning fish with gold and metallic blue patterns and black and red markings. Males are brighter and have longer dorsal and anal fin filaments; females are typically smaller and have rose coloring on the belly. Domesticated morphs include xanthic gold, electric blue, and longfin variations.

Mikrogeophagus is derived from the Greek (mikrós), which means “little,” and the generic name Geophagus. Ramirezi was probably selected to prevent misunderstanding since the fish was formerly known as ramirezi in the ornamental trade.

Microgeophagus Ramirezi male


Basic facts about Mikrogeophagus ramirezi

Also know as: Ram cichlid, German ram, blue ram, butterfly cichlid, Ramirez’s cichlid are some of the common names for this species.
Preferred Water Chemistry: Very warm, 27° to 30°C (81° to 86°F), even warmer for breeding, prefers soft, acidic water with a pH as low as 5, performs best in soft, acidic water with a pH as low as 5.
Difficulty: Simple if the fish’s particular demands are satisfied, but not in a typical communal tank. Many rams are maintained in unsuitable temperatures. They are sensitive to dissolved wastes and will perish fast in stale water.
Size: 7 cm TL (2.75 inches), though sometimes smaller.
Tank Setup: A planted tank with tiny or calm tankmates who can all tolerate the higher temps required is ideal.
A micropredator is feeding. The greatest meaty meals are those that are alive or frozen.
Breeding: A free breeder in the right environment. In a suitably big tank, more than one pair can be kept. A substrate as opposed to a cave spawner. Parents are generally dedicated, however there have been several stories of parents devouring their offspring. To be successful, adequate accommodations must be provided, as well as the aquarium being located in a low-traffic area to reduce disruptions.
Type Locality: Venezuelan state of Orinoco
Range: Colombian and Venezuelan IIanos in the Orinoco drainage
Taxonomic Difficulties: Originally reported as Apistogramma ramirezi, it was later renamed Papilochromis ramirezi and was occasionally misspelled as Microgeophagus.

Overview of keep a Ram cichlid

The ram is best maintained in pairs, but if housed in a small group, a coupe will develop. A pair will have a big territory in comparison to the size of the fish. As a result, it is best not to keep two males in a tank that is less than 1.2 metres long. Females will also battle to protect their area. You may keep them alongside other small, easygoing, and gentle fish. They may be found mostly in the lower or bottom levels of the tank, which may pose a hazard to other bottom-dwelling fish such as Corydoras.

The Electric Blue Ram Cichlid will flourish in a tank with a sandy substrate and plenty of hiding places, such as clay pots, driftwood, and rock formations. It is a fantastic choice for a planted aquarium, although it does require a good bit of open space. As long as it has sufficient of room, this cichlid is typically friendly with other calm fish. During spawning, territoriality is usually at its highest. Dwarf shrimp and other small, delicate invertebrates should not be maintained with the Electric Blue Ram Cichlid, but bigger, more robust shrimp and snails may be suitable tankmates in a large enough aquarium. If spawning is desired, other species tankmates should be maintained to a minimum or avoided entirely.


The first specimens were captured in Venezuela’s Orinoco river delta. The Llanos are a large system of tropical savannah grasslands, seasonally flooded plains, and forests in Venezuela and Colombia that encompass about 600,000 square kilometers. Seasonal flooding occurs around May, resulting in a huge wetland.


This tiny fish is benthophagous, which means it will take a mouthful of the earth and sift it with its guiles for anything edible, spitting out the pebbles or sand. They will consume all small fresh foods such as mosquito larvae, daphnia, and artemia, as well as frozen meals and flakes. Providing a variety of meals will improve their coloring. It’s also a good idea to feed them in different areas of the tank since, because they’re slow feeders, other faster and bigger fish may devour everything before these fish get to it. Animals captured in the wild may refuse flakes or tabs, but after a time of adjustment, they will begin eating dry foods. It is important to give enough live food for these fish to get them through this phase.


The storage tank

A 60-centimetre tank is required for the Mikrogeophagus ramirezi. The tank must be outfitted with enough hideouts and plants to offer enough shelter. Sand may be used as a substrate since it is the soil closest to their native environment. Create hideouts and gloomy areas for the fish to relax using wood and branches. Make sure there are some flat rocks available for egg laying. Leaf litter is appreciated since it is native to their original habitat and provides extra hiding places. This isn’t the only benefit these leaves have. They feed the Mikrogeophagus ramirezi’s tiny fry. Furthermore, when the leaves decompose, acids are released into the water, which are good to these sensitive fish and improve global water quality. As previously stated, these fish are quite sensitive to changes in water quality, thus regular water changes are essential.

Water conditions

These fish like the tank’s lowest and middle levels.
Temperature of the water: 27 – 30 °C
Hardness: 18 – 179 ppm
pH value: 4.0 – 7.0
As previously stated, these fish are quite sensitive to water quality. The Redox may be used to calculate the amount of waste in the water.

More on how to keep

As long as enough cover and structure are provided, this species is uncomplicated in terms of decoration, with ceramic flowerpots, lengths of plastic pipe, and other fake materials all being suitable additions. A more natural-looking design may include a soft, sandy substrate with wood roots and branches strategically arranged to create plenty of shaded areas and caves, as well as one or two flat boulders or similar to give possible spawning locations.


The addition of dried leaf litter would enhance the natural feel while also promoting the formation of beneficial microbial colonies during decomposition. These may be a vital supplementary food source for fry, and the tannins and other compounds produced by decomposing leaves help to simulate natural circumstances. Aquatic plants can also be employed, with Microsorum, Taxiphyllum, Cryptocoryne, and Anubias being particularly helpful because they can be grown connected to the décor, despite the fact that none of them are native to South America. Filtration, or at least water flow, should be moderate, and major water changes should be avoided, with frequent changes of 10-15% suggested. This species should never be introduced into new or otherwise immature aquaria. When circumstances worsen, it becomes vulnerable to a condition known as head and lateral line erosion or hole-in-the-head in other species, which presents itself initially as tiny pits created by eroding flesh around the head and lateral line pores.


When you have healthy fish, breeding Rams is simple. Ensure that the parents are properly fed. It might be more difficult to breed wild-caught Mikrogeophagus ramirezi. For the eggs to hatch, they require extremely soft and acidic water. They are substrate spawners, and the female will lay her eggs in various locations throughout the tank. Around 200 eggs will be laid on plants, dimples in the substrate, pebbles, or decorations, and both parents will aggressively guard their nest. The most effective method is to utilize a breeding tank with a sand floor, Java moss, and rocks. You want almost little current flowing through the tank and dim illumination. The parents excavate tiny holes in the substrate to allow the fry to search for microscopic food. The fry are moved from pit to pit by their parents. They move the fry by picking them up with their mouth. The newly hatched Rams are quite little. At initially, you can give them infusion or micro worms. As they grow, you may replace them with newly hatched brine shrimp.
Never give daphnia to the parents because it looks too much like their fry. When parental care is no longer required, the parents can be returned to their tank.

crowntail betta

Crowntail Betta – Care Manual, Lifespan, Compatibility and Facts

Did you know that Crowntail Betta is one of the most popular pet fish species in the world? The Crowntail Betta is a stunningly beautiful fish. It’s easily accessible at most pet shops. They’re popular among collectors and aquarists of all skill levels because of the vast range of hues available.

Crowntails are a subspecies of the Betta splendens and are commonly know as behavioral term of the Siamese fighting fish. These magnificent tropical fish are quite easy to care for, as long as you provide them with a well-balanced, nutritious feed, proper tank conditions, and acceptable tankmates or alone. But if you want to own one, you should be aware that they come with their own set of challenges that you must be prepared for.

The fish’s ancestors are said to have originated in Thailand (formerly Siam) and other regions of South-East Asia (e.g. Malaysia, Vietnam and Indonesia). They are well-known for its gorgeous, and often colorful, ray-finned caudal, as well as their aggressive temperament, which can make keeping them as a beginning difficult.,%20Colisa,Gourami/Crowntail%20Betta.jpg

It’s one of the most popular tiny freshwater fish in the United States for one reason: its stunning caudal fins! We cover all you need to know about caring for and reproducing Crowntail bettas in this article. Continue reading to discover about their behavior, care requirements, nutrition requirements, optimal tank conditions, and tank mates. If you’re short on time, have a look at the facts summary table below for a fast overview of Crowntail Bettas.

Crowntail Betta Overview

The Crowntail Betta, which is native to Southeast Asia’s small rivers and rice terraces, is one of the world’s most popular pet fish species! It’s easily accessible at most pet shops. They’re popular among collectors and aquarists of all skill levels because of the vast range of hues available.

There are several varieties of “Siamese Fighting Fish” available. The Crowntail, on the other hand, is the most common. As a result, many people just refer to them as “Bettas.” You may also find them offered under the Betta species’ full scientific name, Betta splendens.

Whatever you choose to name them, there’s no doubting that these fish are stunning! They do, however, have a reputation for being aggressive. As a result, if you don’t know what you’re in for, they might be difficult to care for.

They are noted for their aggressive attitude and distinctive fin features, particularly their massive caudal fin. With its brilliant red and blue caudal fin and massive fin extensions, a male Crowntail Betta may become the focal point of any modest home aquarium.

This fish is ideal for beginner fish keepers; nevertheless, it is recommended that you have two years of expertise if you want to add tank mates. The Crowntail is native to Thailand and other regions of South-East Asia (Malaysia, Vietnam, and Indonesia), where it got its name from its visible spiky tail and caudal fins. Achmad Yusuf, an Indonesian betta breeder, first developed this distinctive caudal fin in 1997. The fin features of the native wild progenitors were smaller and the fin colors were less vivid. Expect your Crowntail Betta to grow to a maximum length of 3”, more probably 2.5”. A Crowntail Betta has a typical lifetime for a tiny tropical freshwater fish, lasting 2-3 years. Expect to pay between $5 to $30 for your Crowntail, depending on its size.

Crowntail Betta Facts

  • Care level: Requires moderate to high level of care
  • Family: Gourami
  • Compatibility: Aggressive
  • Temperament: Especially Aggressive
  • Diet: Carnivorous Size: 3″ (High protein)
  • Appearence: Multiple color forms; generally blue and red
  • Lifespan: Life expectancy is 2-3 years
  • Minimum Tank Capacity: 5 Gallons
  • Setup of the tank: Floating Water Plants in Freshwater

The Crowntail Betta Lifespan

The average lifespan of a Crowntail Betta is two to three years.  These aren’t the industry’s longest-living fish.  However, when it comes to lifetime, there are no promises.  They can live a little longer with adequate care, or they might die young due to sickness or stress.
The level of care you offer is really important, so be alert and devoted if you want your fish to live as long as possible!

Origins of Crowntail Betta

Crowntail Betta splendens is a captive-bred variation of the wild Placat Betta, often known as the Siamese Fighting fish.
Placats are tiny, stocky fish that were developed to be particularly aggressive toward their own species for the “sport” of fish fighting.
Bettas may be found throughout Southeast Asia, particularly in the Malayan peninsula, the Mekong Basin, Vietnam, Thailand, and Cambodia. The fish graze on insect larvae and water-bound insects in slow-moving or stagnant waterways, such as rice paddies, canals, shallow streams, and tiny ponds.

The Betta is now classified as a “Vulnerable” species on the IUCN Red List. Unfortunately, the actual amount of the wild Betta splendens population decline is unknown, although much of its known habitat has been transformed for industrial-scale farming, resulting in river deterioration and pollution, particularly in central Thailand. Genetic degradation caused by hybrid, farmed versions of the species that have been released into the wild and are allowed to mate with wild fish poses another threat to the native Betta population. Sex, color brilliance, and dealer repute are all important considerations.
History of the Crowntail Betta The Crowntail Betta is a subspecies of the Betta splendens. These fish do not exist in the wild since they were designed and raised in captivity particularly for the hobby and for display.
Crowntails were originally created in 1997 by the Indonesian breeder Achmad Yusuf, whose first fish was named “Cupang Serit.”
Crowntails, like other male betta fish, are notorious for being extremely aggressive with other male Siamese Fighting fish and other brilliantly colored kinds of fish with long flowing fins. A Crowntail will fight his own reflection if he believes it is another male in his area.

Crowntail Betta’s Appearance

Despite being not more than 20 years old as a species, the Crowntail Betta is well-known for its colorful tail fin. Their caudal fin has enormous extensions and may grow to reach 8 inches in diameter, which is three times the size of its body! What’s especially striking is the Crowntail’s caudal fin’s drastically decreased webbing, which gives it a crown-like look. The Crowntail’s spiky distinct points on their fins give them a crown-like look. When completely developed, it should reach a height of 2.5 inches, however some can reach a height of 3 inches.

Crowntail Bettas are similar in form to other Betta fish. The body is long and thin. It has a very consistent shape, tapering down to a point at the mouth. Bettas’ mouths are supra-terminal, which means they are upturned and movable. The gill plate is located just behind the skull. The gills are usually smooth and flat against the body. But don’t be shocked if the fish’s gills flare out when it becomes furious or territorial! The fish do this to make themselves appear bigger and more threatening.


Of course, the most distinguishing feature of Crowntail Bettas is their fins! Males have a large caudal fin that can be three times the size of the body. It spreads out and seems to link to the anal and dorsal fins. The anal fin is fairly broad in comparison to other fish of its size, adding to the drama. The dorsal fin is narrower. But it’s just as lovely. Dorsal fins are often placed further back on the back to provide bulk to the tailfin.

So, what distinguishes Crowntail Bettas from other species? It ultimately boils down to the webbing that connects the fin rays. Crowntails have less webbing, resulting in a distinct distinction between each fin. The fins have a spiky or crown-like appearance, thus the colorful name. Male Crowntail Bettas have long, flowing fins, as they usually do. Females have substantially shorter fins. However, they retain some length and the distinctive spiky appearance.

The Crowntail Betta fish comes in a wide range of colors. Most have a broad and bright color range, making them some of the most colorful fish available. You could witness fish with brilliant blue, vibrant crimson, and deep purple splashes. Subtle hues of green and gold shimmer are also typical. While they appear in a rainbow of hues, the most noticeable ones are dark tones of blues and reds. The Crowntail Betta is one of several bettas that have been developed to have a wide range of caudal fins.

  • Red Betta
  • Delta and Super Delta
  • Spade Tail
  • Veil Tail
  • Half-Moon
  • Rose Tail

Each of these Bettas has a different look.

Behavior Patterns

Crowntail Bettas are bullies. This is a reality that can’t be refuted! By nature, these fish are fighters that go on with whatever mean they have. Any fish in their way will be ripped apart, bit, and shoved. Crowntail Bettas are territorial and detest being near other fish. Two Crowntail Bettas have a face-to-face encounter. They dislike fish that are similar in size to themselves much more. The fins of these fish will flap in an effort to scare you. Before you know it, they’ll start thrashing and biting until their ostensible foes are dead. They will fight both their own species and any other fish that crosses their path. Males and females can get along at times. Nonetheless, there are always risks.

Understanding Crowntail Bettas behaviour

To comprehend the way they behave, you it’s good to first comprehend the history of their forefathers. Bettas, commonly known as Siamese fighting fish, are the source of Crowntail Bettas. They’re called Siamese because they’re from Siam (now Thailand), and fighting fish because they used to fight! Wild bettas, also known as plakats, are ripping and biting fish that were bred for their fighting abilities. South Asians used to catch Siamese fighting fish from rice paddies as a pastime and then compete in fish battles. All bettas, including the Crowntail, have developed aggressive behavioral tendencies as a result of this hobby.

The Crowntail Betta is an aggressive species that commonly exhibits dominance, aggressiveness, and territorial tendencies in its behavior. They like to live alone and have a vast territorial territory. Bettas can have tank mates, despite their aggressive nature; for more information, see the tank mates section.

Feeding and Dietary Requirements

One of the most crucial aspects of Crowntail Betta care is providing a healthy food, although this is not always simple. These fish may be fussy about what they eat! They also have tiny stomachs that may fill very rapidly. Because of its voracious hunger, this species is prone to constipation and overeating.

Crowntails are carnivorous fish that need a high-protein diet to survive. It’s ideal to feed your fish twice a day, and just give them little pieces that they can finish in a minute or two. Bettas are famously hungry once they find a favorite food source, and given that the Crowntail’s stomach is the same size as his eye, they don’t require a lot of food in one sitting.

So what kinds of foods will they eat?

Bettas eat prefer protein-based foods above anything else. They like pellets, flakes, live, and frozen food, among other things. Actually, Crowntail Betta is a picky eater, so you might have to try a few different brands before finding one that your fish will eat. Bloodworms, mosquito larvae, brine shrimp, blackworms, and wingless fruit flies are all common foods for betta fish.

Overfeeding your fish can lead to bloat, constipation, and dropsy, among other health issues. In addition, uneaten food decomposes, contaminating the water and putting further strain on your filtering system. As a result, most knowledgeable fish keepers advise avoiding feeding your betta fish for one day every week. This permits the digestive system of the fish to process any food that is still flowing through it before adding more.


Constipation is a frequent symptom of overfeeding in Crowntails, and it manifests itself in two ways:

  • Their eyes are bulging out of their heads
  • The body seems to be enlarged.

Overfeeding will cause an improper nitrogen cycle, making your Crowntail fish unwell and eventually causing constipation, which is a big betta death.

Variety in food is usually a good thing for tropical fish.
Live meals, pellets, flakes, and frozen foods are all excellent alternatives… as long as they’re served in moderation. Betta fish are picky eaters, so we’ve put up a list of their favorite snacks, meals, and nutritional foods.

Living Foods

  • Wingless Fruit Flies
  • White Worms
  • Insect Larvae
  • Mosquito Larva


  • Betta pellets (2-3 pellets per feeding session)

Frozen Foods (Best for snacks and treats and not typical meals)

  • Blood Worms
  • Black Worms
  • Black Mosquito Larvae
  • Brine Shrimp

Crowntail Bettas are extremely resilient in the wild and will consume almost any food source available to them due to their limited dietary options. In the wild, their usual food consists of worms, mosquitos, larvae, and insects. As with all young fish
you should support a diversified diet high in protein and never restrict fatty amino acids for vivid colors and optimal growth.

Betta Crowntail Breeding

Crowntail Bettas may be bred, but you’ll need a large tank to do it successfully. The unusual spawning procedure cannot take place in a tiny tank. As mentioned in the tank conditions section, you should expect to see clusters of bubbles (i.e. bubble nest) floating on top of the tank if you have a Crowntail Betta. Males will blow bubbles that float to the surface after training the fish with high-protein meals.They cause little bubble clusters to form on the surface. Typically, it’s in the tank’s corners or beneath floating plants.

These are two reason why this is a positive sign:

  • It might also mean that your betta is getting ready to reproduce.
  • It might mean that your fish is in good health.

Their breeding method is one-of-a-kind.

Your male Crowntail Betta will build a bubble nest near the floating plants, which he will fertilize later.
Crowntail bettas are excellent breeding partners. 14 months is the ideal age. Your betta isn’t sexually mature if it’s less than 2 inches long. It is feasible to breed Crowntail Bettas; but, their aggressive behavior in restricted tanks might make the process more difficult. Breeding takes a long time and costs a lot of money! A single spawn of Crowntail Bettas will set you back over $2,000, and it will take a long time to complete. The fish will execute their mating ritual if the female is open to reproducing. The male fertilizes her eggs as she releases them into the sea. After that, the pair will gather them and transport them to the bubble nest for safety.
In approximately two days, the eggs will hatch. The young fish will then live on the egg sac until they are able to swim independently. After that, you can try powdered meals or infusoria.
It goes without saying that adult fish must be removed before the eggs hatch. Otherwise, the infants will rapidly become food.

Crowntail Betta Fish Tank Setup

Now let’s look as some tank requirements when setting up the habitat. The environment is the most important aspect of caring for your Crowntail Betta. Depending on the species you choose to keep as tank mates for your Crowntail, you can select a different tank. If you aren’t planning on introducing tank mates, we recommend starting with a 10 gallon tank. Anything less than a 10 gallon tank will cause your Crowntail to crash often, causing fin damage. If you’re using a 10 gallon tank, make sure to change the water every 2-3 days, but don’t replace all of the water at once because this can kill the beneficial bacteria. Their native environment in South Asia is lush with flora, paddy rice fields, and slow-moving streams that filter the water naturally. When it comes to the water in their aquarium, you should include Indian almond leaves. This will result in a large amount of helpful natural acids being released for your betta. Crowntail Bettas are energetic freshwater species that are also renowned good jumpers. They are so powerful that they may leap from the tank to their deaths. Because of their leaping behavior, you must have a well-fitting cover on your tank. Finally, Crowntails, like other bettas, are labyrinth breathers. This implies that they can get oxygen from both the air and the water. This implies that no aeration systems should be used in your tank. This will help protect your betta’s delicate caudal fins from harm caused by strong tank currents. Next up, let’s have a look at what tank conditions need to be in place:

Tank basics – conditions to aim for

As a freshwater species, the tank conditions for your Crowntail are critical. Within your tank, you should be able to manipulate three factors. You must maintain a pH level of 6.4 to 7.0, a water hardness of 2 to 5 carbonate hardness (dKh), and a water temperature of 76°F to 80°F. When fishing for Crowntails, keep an eye on the water temperature. This is critical since it ensures the betta’s metabolism is correct. Sudden adjustments or moves outside of the recommended range of +- 2°F can be harmful. Keep the tank’s lighting as low as possible. Floating plants are usually a fantastic addition since they help your Crowntail construct a more natural environment with bubble nests. Gravel, fine sand, or a bare bottom are all excellent substrates for bettas. Bettas thrive on sand because it replicates their natural habitat.

What size you the tank be?

Regrettably, it is widely assumed that betta fish may be housed in a vase or small bowl. That’s a very bad idea! Bettas, like any other type of fish, require clean, properly filtered, and warm water to flourish. Ideally, you should maintain your Betta in a tank with at least 10 gallons of water, especially if you want to offer your fish some tankmates to keep him company. Betta fish in the wild occupy a territory of around 3 square feet. As you can see, a bowl or vase would be crowded and unpleasant. Betta fish are members of the gourami family and, as such, are labyrinth breathers.
That implies the fish can breathe air from the water’s surface when oxygen levels are low, which can occur during the dry season in the Betta’s natural environment. As a result, you must select a tank with a large surface area. Although the Crowntail Betta has a magnificent tail fin, it may be a significant hindrance when the fish is attempting to swim to the surface to feed or breathe. As a result, it is preferable to go with a shallow, long tank rather than a tall, deep one.
Bettas in the wild are sometimes seen dwelling in puddles, especially during the dry season. As a result, the fish has acquired the capacity to leap, allowing it to migrate as needed. Bettas in captivity may also leap, so pick a tank with a cover slide or a securely fitting lid.

What To Put Inside Their Tank

Betta fish are clever creatures who appreciate an environment that offers plenty of opportunities for exploration and investigation.
Betta aficionados are also aware that these fish may grow bored. Boredom causes tension, which causes the fish to grow drowsy and cease feeding. So, provide lots of lush vegetation for your Betta, including some flat-leaved plants for your fishy companion to relax and hide on. Smooth resin ornaments, like as caverns and hollow, floating logs, are also suitable for use in betta tanks.
The substrate and any decorations used in a betta tank should be soft and smooth so that the Crowntail’s luxuriant finnage is not damaged. Keep the illumination on the dim side. Floating plants are wonderful for filtering light and encouraging your fish to create a bubble nest like he would in the wild. A handful of Indian almond leaves added to the tank might help your Crowntail Betta’s health.

Water conditions – Important for health

To keep your Crowntail healthy, make sure he has the optimum conditions in his tank. The water temperature in the tank should be between 76o and 80o Fahrenheit. That is essential because betta fish are extremely sensitive to temperature changes, and your Crowntail will suffer if there are hot and cold places in his aquarium. Temperature shock is a recognized killer of betta fish, therefore you must pay great attention to this element of the tank environment. Place the heater near the pump outlet so that heat is distributed throughout the tank, assisting in maintaining a consistent temperature throughout the surroundings. Place your tank thermometer at the end of the tank that is farthest away from the heater to check for hot and cold spots. If the temperature displayed by the thermometer remains consistent, you can be sure that the warmth is spread equally throughout the tank. The pH level should be between 6.4 and 7.0, and the water hardness should be between 2 and 5 dKH. Make it a habit to check the levels of ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate in your tank once a week and to change up to 30% of the water.

Tankmates and handling compatibility

Crowntail Betta fish are hostile to other fish. Certainly not what you’d call a friendly neighborhood fish! To avoid aggression, most aquarists keep these fish alone. If you have a large tank, only try to provide tank mates.  Your Crowntail Betta will require plenty of space in order to ignore the other fish in the tank.

The first guideline is to not overcrowd the tank. Bettas like being territorial and having their own area. As a general rule, never mix more than one male Crowntail in a tank with another. They will battle each other as adults until one of them dies. Crowntail Bettas like to live alone; but, if you want to introduce companions and add some variety to your tank, you have a few alternatives. Crowntails will battle any fish that exhibits dominance, aggressiveness, territoriality, or is greater in size.

If you want a lively tank, there are a few suitable tank mate options.  If you notice any aggression when introducing the fish, stop the experiment and separate the fish. Some Crowntail Bettas simply must be left alone!

When you’re searching for compatibility, look for fish species that prefer to swim in a different stratus of the aquarium. Because Crowntails live in the middle and higher layers of your aquarium, we’re seeking for bottom dwellers who are serene and calm:

  • Cherry Shrimp
  • African Dwarf Frogs
  • Neon Tetras and similar tetra types
  • Fast-moving Guppies
  • Ghost Shrimp

If you’re adding a betta to an existing aquarium, don’t put them in right away. Float a betta cup, or a plastic cup, on top of the tank for 30 minutes with your betta inside. Keep an eye on how it interacts with other fish. If your Crowntail Betta becomes too aggressive (e.g., gill puffing), it should be removed from the tank. Once in the tank, ensure sure the betta isn’t too aggressive with the other fish.

Availability – How to get the Crowntail Betta you want

Crowntail betta fishes are one of the most common Betta splendens variations, and they are simple to produce in captivity. As a result, you can find these fish at most decent fish stores.

If you’re seeking for a really unique coloring in a specimen to breed from, one of the many internet dealer websites may have something suitable. You might also check out the auction site, where a rare golden betta sold for a record price of $1,500 a few years ago.

However, the average cost of a normal red or blue Crowntail betta ranges from $5 to $30, depending on size, color brightness, sex, and where you get your fish. Remember that, while ordering online has advantages, you will have to pay shipping fees and you will not be able to see your fish “in person” before it comes.

Risk For Common Potential Diseases

Crowntail Bettas are vulnerable to all of the common health issues that affect freshwater fish. They can have parasite infections, bacterial infections, or fungal infections.

They may develop Ich if they are agitated or exposed to a sick fish. Ich is a highly contagious illness characterized by white patches on the body. It is a serious illness, but it is also easily treated with over-the-counter medicines.

Crowntail Betta fish are prone to fin rot as well. This is a one-of-a-kind illness that causes the fins to deteriorate gradually. The tips of the fins may become gray before sloughing off completely. This condition is also curable with the appropriate medicine.

Finally, Crowntail Bettas are reported to have constipation on occasion. If your fish’s bellies expand and they become sluggish, they are constipated. Constipation usually resolves itself after a few of days of mild fasting.

Is a Crowntail Betta right for you?

The Crowntail Betta’s stunning caudal fins will undoubtedly keep you interested as you watch this energetic tiny freshwater tropical fish swim about the tank. While Crowntails are renowned for their dominance and aggressiveness issues, they may get along with tankmates who are calm bottom dwellers. Crowntail Bettas come in a variety of hues, the most common of which are red and blue.
Is your tank home to a Crowntail Betta? Please let us know in the comments section below…

Female Betta Fish – Types, Differences and How to Keep Them

Bettas (Betta splendens) are without a doubt one of the most well-known tropical fish.

They are also known as Siamese Fighting Fish and are renowned for their aggressiveness as well as their beauty. This is a strong reason some people choose to maintain female Bettas. They are far more calm and can even be kept in groups known as sororities. However, among aquarium enthusiasts who raise bettas , the male fish are typically referred to as the “colorful ones.” Males are frequently preferred over females, not just because of their color, but also because males have longer tails and more dominant dispositions.

However, this does not imply that females are all drab, colorless fish. Males are more often maintained in shops, therefore females are more difficult to locate. Even so, you should have little trouble finding ones in your neighborhood. Each fish will cost around $5.

Females, like males, live just around three years. The betta fish is native to Thailand, Malaysia, and Cambodia, and while most bettas sold in pet stores today are very distantly related to Southeast Asian natives, they share several characteristics.  Female bettas have simpler colors and characteristics, and through time, breeding has exacerbated these distinctions, with males more developed for vivid colour and long, flowing fins and tails. There hasn’t been much effort put towards selecting breeding such characteristics in female fish.

Bettas are, unfortunately, a threatened species in their native environment. Because they are widely bred in captivity, they are far more successful. This breeding has resulted in a plethora of variants with different appearances.  Other closely related species, such as Gouramis and Paradisefish, are kept in fish tanks as members of the Osphronemidae family. When opposed to their male counterparts, female betta fish are generally less elaborate and adorned.


A male betta fish with considerably bigger fins and more complex coloring. The female betta fish is on the right, and her colors are duller. A female betta fish’s colors might deepen if she responds to a male betta fish’s mating efforts. She is usually smaller than the male betta fish.

Female betta fish, unlike male betta fish, may coexist peacefully in the same tank. When they live together, the group is referred to as a’sorority.’ A recommended number of female betta fish to keep together is 4-6. They want to have their own personal space, which means they should have enough foliage to hide in when they want to be alone. Plants or aquarium decorations may frequently act as ideal hiding spots for betta fish.

Egg laying

Female egg spotting

Female betta fish will deposit eggs after they mate. The eggs are laid in what is known as a “egg spot,” which is ringed above. The speck, which resembles a grain of salt, is the ovipositor tube, from which the eggs will emerge.
If you are unclear if a betta fish is male or female, use this method to identify it.

Baby Bettas and eggs

The pair should be separated after mating.The eggs will be placed in a bubble nest created by the male betta fish (see Male Betta Fish).In approximately three days, the young betta fish will hatch. They are known as “fry” and are extremely little. Neither parent will look after the infants; they will fend for themselves as they develop.,%20Colisa,Gourami/Betta%20female%20.jpg

Tank and Habitat Conditions

These fish may be found in the wild across Asia, therefore while designing the ideal aquarium, we must consider their natural habitats.
They like shallow river basins and rice fields. The warm water would travel at a leisurely pace. Bettas are tough and can live in a variety of water conditions.
This is why they have a labyrinth organ: to obtain oxygen from the air when there isn’t enough in the water.  When it comes to tank design, both sexes have the same tastes.  We’ll go through how to mimic their natural environment in order to keep them happy and healthy.

How to set up the tank

Sand is always a safe choice for a substrate. It features tiny grains, making it less prone to scratch if your fish start digging or eating from the bottom of the tank. Place groupings of plants in different sections of the tank to behave as separate territories (and help to oxygenate the water).

Making caves out of rocks and other decorations can also assist. Because it is a hardy plant, hornwort is an excellent choice.
You may also choose whether to plant it or float it on the surface. Make careful that plants do not cover too much of the surface.
Bettas use the surface for a variety of purposes, including breeding, breathing, and eating. This species is employed to calm water, so no water or air pumps are required to generate a current. A filter is required to keep the water clean. You will also require a heater. Set it to a temperature between 75°F and 80°F.  Maintain a pH of 6-8.  The hardness of the water should be between 5-35 dGH.

What size aquarium will they require?

A tank of at least 10 gallons is required for a single female Betta.  Keeping them as members of a community will necessitate a larger tank.

How many can be stored in a gallon?

If you intend to retain a sorority of females, each new fish will require an additional 5 liters of water. The more room you offer them, the less likely they are to fight.

Female Betta behaviour

Bettas are known for their aggressiveness. They were really bred for fighting, which is why they got the second moniker Siamese Fighting Fish.
It is now unlawful to fight them.  Females are less aggressive, although they will fight if necessary. They like establishing a hierarchy and claiming their area.  Because the fights are less violent than when men fight, injuries are less frequent.

The aggressiveness is mostly directed at other Bettas; females accept other species well.
They are typically sluggish swimmers who live in the tank’s middle and higher levels.  They will occasionally come to the surface to breathe. They are able to do so because they have a labyrinth organ that allows them to absorb oxygen from the air.
They also have gills, which they employ the most of the time.
Breathing from the air might signal that the water is in bad quality.

How to Tell Whether Your Betta Fish is a Female?

Let’s look at how Males and females can be distinguished.  To begin with, females are somewhat smaller, reaching 2.25 inches in length.
Males can reach a height of 2.5-3 inches. Females have smaller fins, especially the anal and dorsal fins.
The tail fin is also a little thinner. Because both sexes of this species have small fins, they are easily confused with typical female Bettas.  Look for a “egg spot” to identify an individual’s sex.  This is a tiny opening through which the ovipositor tube can release eggs during mating.
It’s on the underside of the body, between the fins and the tail. Female Bettas are available in the same colors as males (blues, purples, reds, Koi, and so on), but they are not as vibrant.

This species comes in numerous variations (such as Crowntail Bettas), but the distinctions between them are more noticeable in males since the fins are generally different.  However, there are several variants with multicolored males and females.  Females have the ability to modify the strength of their coloring depending on their mood.
During the mating season, for example, they get darker. The brightest displays are found in the wild when females are attempting to form a social order by asserting authority over one another. Females are less frequent because to their decreased fins and colors, but they are still very lovely fish.

Breakdown of differences

You can also consider the the following breakdown features should assist you in determining the gender of your betta. Remember that young fish may not exhibit sexual differences. Rather than utilizing a single characteristic to identify gender, compare mature specimens of the same species and color, and evaluate numerous variables.
Vertical striations When female bettas are ready to mate, they will show vertical stripes on their bodies, but males do not.

Body Type

Female bettas are often shorter and wider-bodied than male bettas. Males have extended bodies that are somewhat flatter from side to side. Males are frequently more brightly colored than females; nevertheless, color alone is not a reliable indicator of gender. Males have more bright colors than females, although females may be extremely colorful as well.

 The Egg Spot

The ventral and anal fins of mature females have a “egg spot.” This is the ovipositor, which is responsible for egg laying. Males almost never have an egg spot.


Male bettas have significantly longer fins, up to three or four times the length of females’ fins. While males in certain betta types have small caudal (tail) fins, females in most varieties have shorter caudal fins and males have longer fins. The male’s ventral fins are significantly longer and thicker than the female’s.

Flaring Male and Female

When bettas flare, the sexes’ distinctions become more evident. Males have a big beard, whilst females have a much smaller, less noticeable beard. Females may also adopt a head-down posture during flaring, which men do not.

The opercular membrane is a membrane found behind the gill plate cover in Beard Bettas. When the fish flares its gill plates, this membrane looks as a “beard.” Males have a significantly bigger beard, which is frequently apparent even when the guy is not flaring. Females have beards as too, although they are considerably smaller and are not apparent when the female is not flaring.

Characteristics of Behavior

Male bettas are known as Siamese fighting fish for a reason: they are extremely aggressive with one another and with female bettas, and their aggression is strong enough to shorten their projected lifespans. This is why you should never keep more than one male betta in a tank at a time. 1 It’s also not a good idea to have male and female bettas together in an aquarium unless they’re mating.

Nests of Bubbles

Only male bettas, in general, blow bubble nests. This is a nest of saliva bubbles that the fish builds on the water’s surface to safeguard the eggs during breeding. 1 Again, this is not absolute, since a female will occasionally blow a bubble nest. Those occurrences, however, are rather unusual. Males build bubble nests in preparation for mating with females, and they will build nests even if there is no mate in the tank.


Female bettas aren’t as strong as males, yet they can be hostile against one another and other fish. Aggression between females may be quite unpleasant, especially if there are just two females and one of them is a bully. As a result, if you are keeping more than one, it is advised that you keep at least five females in the same tank so that aggressive behavior is more dispersed and not aimed on the same individual.

Popular Types Of Female Betta Fish

Female Crowntail Bettas

This species is well-known for its crowntail caudal fins as well as its vibrant colors. The name comes from the tail’s webbing, which creates a pretty beautiful spiky crownlike look. Female Veiltail Bettas When fully developed, this type of female Betta fish will typically reach a length of 1.5 to 2 inches. Because of their vivid coloration, they may be the most widely marketed Betta fish subspecies, notably the Royal Blue and Turquoise Veiltail. Because rigorous breeding methods are necessary to generate their bright color variants, they have a stronger constitution than certain Betta species (with the exception of the Steel Veiltail, which has a similar fortitude found in other Bettas).

Female Koi Bettas

The Koi Betta gets its name from its color and patterns, which are similar to those found in Koi fish.
Marbled patterns help to break up hues like golds, yellows, and whites.
Adults can grow to be up to 3 inches long. They are one of the simplest Betta species to care for. This species is also renowned for being one of the more calm Betta types available. This might be a crucial feature if you want to construct a female Betta community tank.

Female Halfmoon Bettas

This Siamese Fighting Fish type is named from the flared curve of their tails. Halfmoon Betta tails may reach 180 degrees when fully extended (the shape of a half moon in the sky). This characteristic is appreciated among many fish caretakers as well as those who breed them.

Female Veiltail Bettas

When fully developed, this type of female Betta fish will typically reach a length of 1.5 to 2 inches. Because of their vivid coloration, they may be the most widely marketed Betta fish subspecies, notably the Royal Blue and Turquoise Veiltail. Because rigorous breeding methods are necessary to generate their bright color variants, they have a stronger constitution than certain Betta species (with the exception of the Steel Veiltail, which has a similar fortitude found in other Bettas).